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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.